This is Norway's national mountain, and no wonder. It's a perfect obelisk with sweeping ridges rising straight from the sea. The mountain had several attempts at first ascents but it was not until 30th of July 1910 that Ferdinand Schelderup, Carl Wilhelm Rubenson, and Alf Bonnevie Bryn finally reached the summit of Stetind.
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| Me at Halls false summit |
Five months later and we are back for a new attempt.
Finally we got to climb Stetind! It took us in total 14 hours up and down. Shortly after 7 am we started going up towards Halls false summit, a subsidiary lower point southeast of the main summit. From here the route crosses an exposed ridge with occasional bits of easy technical climbing. Halfway across the ridge is "Mysosten", a cliff that blocks the ridge. The exposed crux of the route, called "De Ti Forbitrede Fingertak" (10 difficult finger holds) is a short technical hand traverse up a crack and I was leading that one! On the way up we met Nadav, a helicopter pilot from Alaska and he came with us to the summit at 1392 m. Just after "Mysosten" it was a bit like "Hillary Step" a group of 17 real estate agents were coming down a narrow part where we had to wait. One of them told me they do something like this every year as teambuilding and this was the most extreme so far they did. They all looked very happy (maybe because they were going down?). Then finally we summited and we stayed quite long up there enjoying the view and had something to eat. When we came down just before 10 pm, we just packed the tent and went down to the parking lot to share some dinner with Nadav before driving home.
Finally we got to climb Stetind! It took us in total 14 hours up and down. Shortly after 7 am we started going up towards Halls false summit, a subsidiary lower point southeast of the main summit. From here the route crosses an exposed ridge with occasional bits of easy technical climbing. Halfway across the ridge is "Mysosten", a cliff that blocks the ridge. The exposed crux of the route, called "De Ti Forbitrede Fingertak" (10 difficult finger holds) is a short technical hand traverse up a crack and I was leading that one! On the way up we met Nadav, a helicopter pilot from Alaska and he came with us to the summit at 1392 m. Just after "Mysosten" it was a bit like "Hillary Step" a group of 17 real estate agents were coming down a narrow part where we had to wait. One of them told me they do something like this every year as teambuilding and this was the most extreme so far they did. They all looked very happy (maybe because they were going down?). Then finally we summited and we stayed quite long up there enjoying the view and had something to eat. When we came down just before 10 pm, we just packed the tent and went down to the parking lot to share some dinner with Nadav before driving home.
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| Leaving our tent |
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| On our way through the woods |
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| Nadav and Mike |
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| Shadow of the mountain |
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| Close to the false summit Photo: Mike |
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| Halls false summit Photo: Mike |
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| So HAPPY to be here today! |
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| Mike |
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| Photo: Mike |
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| Mike |
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| Nadav having a break |
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| Need some energy before "Mysosten" |
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| Summit book Photo: Mike |
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| Looking down at Tysfjorden Photo: Mike |
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| Summit Stetinden 1392 m Photo: Nadav |
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| Good we have a pro photographer with us Look forward to see those pictures soon |
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| Time for lunch |
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| Two guys from Lofoten |
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| Dinner down at the parking lot |
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| Stetinden seen from the parking lot |
Gött jobb på fingertraversen! Kul att vi äntligen fick revansch!
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