Attempt Cabeza del Condor

Jonn. Early morning.

Jonn.

Michael, Henrik and Markus.

Me and the glacier.

Heading up.

Nice snow couloir.

Almost end of couloir.

Michael.

Cool pinnacles. Michael and Markus.

Jonn and Cabeza del Condor ahead. 

Over the glacier.

Beautiful.

I am turning at 5400 m.

En memoria de Gerald Puffinger. 

We met two americans having the same plan.

Heading down to camp.

We got up at 5. I had spagetti and soya mince for breakfast today with some cold water. Didn't feel like cereals and tea today. Everyone is coming except Frank who stays at camp. We start with headlamps at 6 am but light comes pretty fast. I don't have headache today! I feel a lot stronger than yesterday. But still after 5 hours at 5400 m I feel that it is hard to keep up with the others. When passing the glacier I need to stop and breathe all the time so I decide to not continue. When we are tied in it's hard if not everyone has the same pace. I am just too weak in the altitude. I waif for the others at the bivouac spot 200 m below. They looked small like ants and then disappeared. Later as I saw them coming down again I heard voices? I met David from Seattle and his friend. They were coming up to leave some equipment and come back tomorrow for the same mountain. But as the others came down they told that they had to turn maybe 100 m below summit due to dangerous snow conditions. Anyway I am glad that everyone is safely down again. There were some huge cracks in that glacier. As I came down I discovered we were out of tea but got some extra from Frank and some smashed crackers from Jonn. Delicious. I finished my book which I then gave to Jonn. Then we had dinner and then I went the rather long way to fill the water bottles. No one wanted to join so I brought my Ipod instead. Today I am full of energy! As I came down I managed to get Frank, Jonn and Markus to join for an evening stroll. Henrik has a headache and is resting. I am so happy that I actually feel good and finally have some energy! Now it's 7 pm and pitch dark. I will listen to some music and then sleep. Tomorrow we go down and move to another camp.