Styggbratt

I have learned a new norwegian word which I really love. Styggbratt. I think it's my new favourite word! Today we went to Leknes to pick up Gunnar and then we met up with Martin at Akkarvika, just before Reine to climb some ice. You could see two lines in the valley and we decided for the right one. The approach was 30 minutes. It was a beautiful day and the ice was really good. Today I climbed with Andreas and I was leading all the four pitches. We started pretty late today so after descent we had our packed lunch and then it was getting darker.

Sorting the gear.

Vassdalsvatnet.

The right side ice. Photo: Martin

Last minute finish. Photo: Martin

Martin leading.

Gunnar leading.

"Project Styggbratt" above the ice left

Andreas coiling the rope.

Traverse Moltinden to Stortinden

We left shortly after 7 from Ballstadøya. Met up with Martin and Jonas in Ramberg. Then we placed one car at the old "Electric Blue Café". We sorted out the last gear details and went up. Andreas and Jonas is one team and I am climbing with Martin. Feeling really safe in the company of a doctor and a nurse! There was a strong wind when we started going upwards but it subsided later on. It took us 8 and a half hour before coming down again at the deserted "Electric Blue Café". After coming down we went to Friisgarden café in Ramberg for a coffee before we went home. I met my new neighbour when I came back to Hattvika standing there with my axes in one hand and she invited me to a 30 year birthday party! That was really nice but I had to decline since I invited Andreas for a sharpening-axes-and-crampons-nite with simple dinner and to watch the movie Cold Haul. We didn't have time for the movie because suddenly it was midnight...so we have to postpone that. I've already seen it several times though but not Andreas. Because tomorrow we are going climbing so we can't be up all nite!

Seen from Napp. The highest peak.

Going up from Ramberg.

View keeps improving.

Our goal - Stortinden.

Short break...

...before climbing starts.

Jonas. Photo: Andreas

The route.

Me and Martin. Photo: Andreas

Jonas looking for placements.

Me following Martin.

My turn to lead!

Summit 866 m.

Time to descend before it's too dark.

Fløya

I woke up after sleeping like a baby at Marianne & Øystein's place. The room was cool and the quilt was thick and warm. I saw the sky turning pink and orange before the other's woke up. Marianne made us the best coffee! We had some breakfast, filled the thermos and made packed lunch. We got dressed and sorted out the equipment (too tired yesterday) then we met the others at the cemetery in Svolvær just below the famous goat (Svolvæergeita). Today I was introduced to some of the most active climbers here. We went up the old path to the right side of the goat, within shortly we had to put on our crampons and have the axe ready. Halfway up three persons decided not to continue but chose another way. I think it was the first time walking with crampons for two of them so I can understand. Me, Andreas and Fredrik continued up the snow chute. This time I used both my axes (feeling a bit more like Ueli Steck!) finally up at the ridge it was time to get tied in. I started leading and came to a crazy steep and airy section where I luckily found some ice ( I only brought my two shortest screws just in case but really happy for that now) I continued the traverse and then finally we went up another snow chute. After this we turned around and Andreas took the short summit lead. Up there was really beautiful and you could look down at Svolvær. Twilight will soon arrive so we took a summit photo and went down. Fredrik was in a hurry because he forgot to bring a headlight.

We passed Djevelporten (Devil's Gate). A really cool place but it was a bit too dark now for a good photo session so I'll have to come back. We went down to where the steep part of the path for descent starts. Finally we took the time to stop for some food, we keep the same style as yesterday just continue for hours with only a few squares of chocolate (but a little chocolate can do wonders for your energy). Now we stopped for tea and sandwiches which we really needed. Enjoying the beautiful view over the sparkling lights down at Svolvæer and the silhouette of the goat. We got a call from the others who were still descending the path that it was so filled with ice that they left a twin rope hanging for us to abseil the worst part of the trail. That was really kind of them because this way it went much faster. For a short while we lost the trail but we could see the cemetery so it was not really a problem and we found it again after a while. Then we went to Geir Rune to leave the ropes. He invited us for coffee but unfortunately we had to say no because Andreas had a meeting to reach in Leknes. We also made a short stop at Stein Helge and his daughter Kathalia before setting off to Vestvågøya. This was such a lovely weekend!

Time for crampons.

Svolværgeita.

Looking down at Svolvær.

Just perfect weather today. 

Heading up the snow chute.

Time to climb!

The lovely sun.

Almost there...

The ridge.

Andreas at summit Fløya. 

The lights shining down there-

Back at the cemetery.

Solitary Man - Neil Diamond
I love this song! (if it were called Solitary Woman it could have been about me). My friend Lucie once told me that we are walking through life like lonely soldiers her an me. Maybe she is right!

Higravstinden

Higravstinden (1146 m) is the tallest mountain on the island of Austvågøya in the Lofoten archipelago. It is located on the border of the municipalities of Hadsel and Vågan in Nordland county, Norway.

 

 

We drove to Svolvær to meet up with Øystein and Vegar then we went to Laukvik and began the approach. In between there were steep sections but the snow was hard so we had good grip with crampons and axes. Then we got up to the section were we needed to rope up. Andreas was leading away and I went second. Then Øystein told me he could not continue so i told him to secure himself and tie out of the rope. Then Vegar continued after me. There was an airy section to pass before summit. We didn't stay long since he was waiting down there for us. Just a quick shot and then we went down carefully. We stopped half way down the snow chute for some tea and sandwiches. I was REALLY hungry now, only had 2 squares of chocolate on my way up and that was many hours ago. Now it was dark. We had a fall when going down, first Øystein below me and I hooked my axe but lost the grip. Luckily Andreas held us all at this point. It looked quite funny because the axe was above me with my glove still in it. So it was solid in the ice, only my hand slipped this time. I was so worn out when we came down. We went to Marianne (Andreas sister) and she had some food and beer for us all. That's like heaven, coming in to a warm house, getting out of the mountain boots and a soft sofa to rest our aching bodies. We watched todays photos on the tv screen and it was quite entertaining.

Volandstinden

Today after work I made a smoothie and then at 5 pm we set off for a moonshine hike up Volandstinden. One hour later we started walking, me, Andreas and Jonas. We took an adventurous way straight up and had a cup of tea at summit, looking down at the lights in Ramberg and Skjelfjorden. The sky was bright and clear, stars were sparkling and it was quite cold. When we came down around 9.30 pm we saw the northern light shining in green, it got stronger after a while and then started moving. I was back home at Ballstadøya by 11 pm.

Lucky me found plantains at Rema!

Volandstinden 457 m.

Planet Lofoten

I was so fascinated by this so I had to make a special post about this.

Lofoten Planet is an artproject by Jan Wanggaard. It's a model of the solar system in the Lofoten nature. A little play with stones. He doesn't even know if he wants to tell where all the planets are. He prefers that people just stumble over them when they walk in the nature. Reflect a little.

Here's a part of the documentary for you to enjoy.

Bunes beach

Beautiful morning towards Reine.

Toilet with a view.

Photo: Andreas

Feeling small below Hell Wall

Used for fishing nets.

The one and only house.

Posing.

Interesting rock formations.

Steep cliffs.

Helvetesväggen (The Hell Wall). 

Boat house Vindstad.

Burned down house...

Lots of beautiful glass balls in the house.

Old barn soon to fall apart.

View from waiting room.

Arriving Reine.

Bunes is one of the more scenic and isolated beaches on the Lofoten Islands. High, glacially carved cliffs surround the beach, the massive 602 meter west face of Helvetestinden being the most impressive. We broke the camp, had to use an ice axe to get those sticks out of the ground! Then we took a walk to the beach to see things in broad daylight this time. The one single house fascinates me. It's so simple but placed in a unique spot. Then we went back to Vindstad left our packs outside the waiting room by the jetty and had a look around at some of the abandoned houses. There are a few holiday houses in really good condition. It got dark and we had a cup of tea while waiting for the boat. There were some people on board this time, probably getting back after spending the weekend in Kirkefjorden or Rostad.